Is liquorice a root?
Before it was a sweet, liquorice was a root that people dug up and chewed. Here is the plant behind it, why the root is so sweet, and how it grew in Yorkshire back gardens.
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Yes, liquorice is a root. The name belongs to a plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra, and the sweet, aromatic flavour we know as liquorice is extracted from its roots. Every liquorice sweet starts life underground.
The plant
Liquorice is a perennial plant of the bean family, native to West Asia, tropical Asia, North Africa and southern Europe. It grows to about a metre tall, with feathery leaves and small flowers that range from purple to pale whitish blue, followed by pods holding a few seeds. It likes well drained soil in deep valleys with full sun, and the roots are harvested in the autumn, two to three years after planting. Countries producing it today include Turkey, Greece, Iran and Iraq.
Sweet root
The name says it all. The word liquorice comes, by way of Anglo French and Late Latin, from the Greek glykyrrhiza, meaning sweet root. The Latin was influenced by liquere, to become fluid, which reflects the way the sweet part is drawn out of the roots.
The sweetness comes mainly from a compound in the root called glycyrrhizin, which makes up about 7 to 10 per cent of it and is 30 to 50 times sweeter than sugar. It is a different kind of sweetness: slower to arrive, a little tart, and longer lasting. The root is yellow inside, a colour that comes from natural flavonoids, and it is the concentrated extract that turns black: see why is black liquorice black?
Chewing the root
The simplest liquorice sweet is the root itself. Dried sticks of liquorice root were once a traditional sweet in Britain, as they still are in the Netherlands, where they are sold as zoethout, sweet wood, to chew on. In Italy, Spain and France the root is harvested, washed, dried and chewed as a mouth freshener.
Liquorice in Yorkshire
Nobody knows exactly when liquorice was first grown in England, but there are records of it by the 16th century, possibly in monastery gardens and as a crop for the gentry. The 1607 edition of Camden's Britannia noted it growing at Worksop and Pontefract. By 1780, English liquorice growing was concentrated almost entirely in Pontefract and in Surrey, around Godalming.
In Pontefract it was grown on plots of land behind people's houses. A map of the siege of Pontefract in 1648 shows liquorice growing in the garths either side of Micklegate, the street between the market place and the castle. Pontefract is where liquorice mixed with sugar was first made into sweets in the modern way, and Pontefract cakes, stamped with an image of the castle, have been made there for centuries: see why is liquorice called Spanish?
A root to respect
Liquorice root is powerful stuff. Eating a lot of pure glycyrrhizin, more than 2 milligrams per kilogram of body weight a day, can cause problems such as high blood pressure, low potassium and muscle weakness, and liquorice root extract should be avoided during pregnancy. Much of the liquorice flavour in modern sweets is boosted with aniseed oil, which tastes similar but comes from a different plant: see is aniseed the same as liquorice?
We sell liquorice allsorts and soft liquorice twists in our pick and mix.
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Questions and answers
Is liquorice a root or a plant?
Both. Liquorice is the common name of the plant Glycyrrhiza glabra, and the flavour comes from its root. The sweets are made from an extract of the root.
Can you eat liquorice root?
Yes. Dried sticks of liquorice root were once sold in Britain to chew as a sweet, as they still are in the Netherlands, and in Italy, Spain and France the root is chewed as a mouth freshener. Very large amounts of liquorice can raise blood pressure, and it should be avoided in pregnancy.
Why is liquorice root sweet?
It contains glycyrrhizin, a natural compound 30 to 50 times sweeter than sugar. Its sweetness is different from sugar: it is slower to arrive, a little tart, and lasts longer.
Where does liquorice grow?
The plant is native to West Asia, tropical Asia, North Africa and southern Europe. Countries producing it include Turkey, Greece, Iran and Iraq. It was once grown in England too, especially in Pontefract in Yorkshire.
Sources
- Liquorice, Wikipedia
- Pontefract cake, Wikipedia
- Liquorice (confectionery), Wikipedia
Keep reading
- Questions people askWhy is black liquorice black?Black liquorice gets its colour from liquorice root extract, which is thickened into dark blocks. Molasses deepens it, and some sweets add colouring.
- Questions people askIs aniseed the same as liquorice?No. Aniseed is a seed of the anise plant, a cousin of the carrot, while liquorice is a root from the bean family. Both taste alike thanks to anethole.
- British heritage sweetsWhy is liquorice called Spanish?In Yorkshire, Lancashire, Cumbria and County Durham, liquorice is called Spanish. Two old stories explain why, one about monks and one about the Spanish Armada.
- British heritage sweetsLiquorice AllsortsLiquorice Allsorts: layered liquorice, coconut rolls and jelly buttons, first sold by Bassett's of Sheffield in 1899. What is in them, and how they began.
- British heritage sweetsLiquorice wheelsLiquorice Catherine wheels are strips of black liquorice coiled around a jelly button covered in hundreds and thousands, named after the firework.
- Questions people askWhy is chewing gum so hard to get off pavements?Gum bonds to pavements and shoe soles because they are made of similar polymers. Removing it needs steam and scrapers, and costs cities a fortune.